Home Research The Schlappe: Burgher and Landsknecht styles
Written by Marion McNealy

Schoen, 1229, detail2The Schlappe is a type of Barett from the southern Germanic lands in the time of the 16th century. The name of the cap, Schlappe, is derived from the Middle High German word "slappe" and means a "bag shaped headcovering with flaps" (Zander-Seidel, p.129-137). The ear flaps and the back neck piece are the distinguishing characteristic between the Schlappe and the Barett. There were several distinct styles for civilian and military usage. For military usage it was a man’s cap, but was worn by both women and men in the cities.


While there is one extant knitted Schlappe in the Germanische National Museum, the ones that are recorded in the inventory records in Textiler Hausrat are most definitely made out of cloth, with wool being the most common in trading inventories and velvet as the most valuable and more likely to be passed down in wills.

In 1567, Helena Baumgartner left "one old schlappen valued at 1 gulden, 1 velvet schlappen with Poschlein (brim?) with gilded silver fittings valued at 1 gulden."

From the women's clothing section of the 1571, inventory of Hieronymous Imhoff there is listed one "1 furred velvet schlappe valued at 3 pounds".

Bartholomaeus Hartpronner was an Augsburg businessman who did a lively trade in goods from Italy. His trade record books detail several transactions for Schlappen. Between 1533 and 1535 he purchased 87 dozen Schlappen from Italy in several shipments and recorded color details of these:

  • Black - 57 dozen
  • Blue - 14 dozen
  • Red - 7.5 dozen
  • Ash colored - 3 dozen
  • Blue and liver colored - 2 dozen
  • White - 1 dozen
  • Liver colored - 1 dozen
  • Green - 1 dozen
After 1535 he just recorded the purchases of "schlappen of numerous colors" at 2 gulden a dozen.(Zander-Seidel, p.129-137)

Art Research

From the artwork of the period, we get a clear picture of the various styles of Schlappen, as well as a second source of documentation for the colors. Yellow is one color that is documented in the artwork that is not in Hartpronner's trading records.

Landsknecht Styles

Click on the picture to open the original source
red slashed schlappe
Source:RealOnline, bild: 000478
Title: Heilung eines von einer Geschützkugel getroffenen Mannes, 1518- 1522
green slashed schlappe
Source:RealOnline, bild: 000629
Title: Steinigung des Hl. Stephan, 1515-1525
red slashed schlappe
Source:RealOnline, bild: 000855
Title:Kreuzigung Christi, 1526
? Altdorfer, Triumph of Maximillian, detail from the banner scene, head of one of the banner holders ? Altdorfer, Triumph of Maximillian, detail from the Tross scene
The following pictures are from The German Single-Leaf Woodcut, 1500-1550, Max Geisberg ; rev. and edited by Walter L. Strauss, New York : Hacker Art Books, 1974.
Schoen 1202 (16K) Landsknecht mit Schrammhans, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1202 Schoen 1203 (30K) Doppelsoldner, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1203 Schoen 1206 (19K) Profos,Lieutenant, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1206
Schoen 1207 (16K) Captain, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1207

Schoen 1208 (14K)

Captain, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1208

Schoen 1217 (12K) Musterschreiber, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1217
Schoen 1218 (15K) Quarter Master, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1218

Schoen 1226 (20K)

Captain of the Landsknecht, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1226

Schoen 1227 (12K)
Detail from Two Leaders and Five Musketeers Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1227
Schoen 1228 detail1 (7K)
Detail from Five Musketeers and Five Mercenaries Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1228
Schoen 1228 detail2 (5K)
Detail from Five Musketeers and Five Mercenaries Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1228
Schoen 1229 detail 1 (13K)
Detail from Ten Landsknechts Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1229
Schoen 1229 detail 2 (8K)
Detail from Ten Landsknechts Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1229
Stor 1336 (10K)
Landsknecht, Niklas Stör, 1538, G.1363

Burgher Styles

Click on the picture to open the original source
Durer, Ein Goldschmied aus Mecheln, 1520
Durer, Ein Goldschmied aus Mecheln, 1520
Durer, Jobst Plankfelt, 1520
Durer, Jobst Plankfelt, 1520

Cranach, woman in a velvet schlappe

CRANACH, Lucas The Younger
Portrait of a Woman, 1539
Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid

Bibliography

Zander-Seidel,Jutta Textiler Hausrat, Kleidun und Haustextilien in Nurnberg von 1500-1650 5.2 Barett - Schlappe pages 129 - 137 translated by Katherine Barich. Found online at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GermanRenCostume/files/Textiler Hausrat Translations/

Geisberg/Strauss, The German single-leaf woodcut, 1500-1550, Max Geisberg ; rev. and edited by Walter L. Strauss, New York : Hacker Art Books, 1974.

Altdorfer, Albrecht; Triumphzug Kaiser Maximilians, Szene: Der Schweizer Krieg Triumphzug Kaiser Maximilians, Szene: Der Troß, Detail

 


Originally written in 2007

 

 
 
 
 
 
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